

TRE RECOVERY ROPE 6M 20T
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Made from UHMW-PE, more wear-resistant.
30% stretch, giving those using it a safer and gentler recovery.
Water, UV resistant.
Highest breaking strengths available, certified at TRE factory
Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS)
It is recommended that the minimum breaking strength of the strap/rope be
between 2 to 3 times the vehicle’s gross vehicle mass (GVM).
GVM refers to the maximum loaded mass (including chassis, body, engine
fluids, fuel, accessories, driver, passengers, and cargo) as specified by the
vehicle manufacturer on a plate affixed to the vehicle or as assessed by the road
authorities in the absence of a plate.
Mean Mother Snatch Ropes are made from nylon webbing which has been
treated for longer wear. Each of our ropes feature 30% elongation, reinforced and
protected eyelets, and are tested to meet quality and strength standards.
Mean Mother Snatch Ropes have been designed to stretch 30% and spring back
to the original length in a recovery operation. Similarly to a rubber band
springing back after stretching, a snatch rope being stretched between two vehicles
generates a kinetic energy pulling force as the rope returns to its original
length. The combination of the recovery vehicle pull and the pulling force from
the rope creates a 'snatching' effect that can heave a stranded vehicle free
from being bogged or unable to move under its own power. When used in
accordance with the “Guidelines for safe use of Vehicle Recovery Ropes and Snatch
Ropes”, vehicles may be recovered with minimal risk of injury to people or damage
to vehicle equipment.
SAFETY RECOMMENDATIONS• Check the strap/rope and its packaging for the stated Minimum Breaking Strength
(MBS) of this strap/rope.
• It is recommended that the minimum breaking strength of the strap/rope should be
between 2 and 3 times the vehicle’s gross vehicle mass (GVM); and
• The strap/rope must be suited to the GVM of the lighter of the two vehicles used in
the recovery process
• Persons intending to use the strap/rope should consider completing a nationally
recognised four wheel drive training course or contact a four wheel drive club for
comprehensive advice on the proper selection and use of the strap/rope.
• The strap/rope must not be used for lifting or conventional towing.
• Persons intending to use the strap/rope must ensure that the strap/rope is not
damaged and is in usable condition.
The strap’s/rope’s strength and stretch are reduced when the strap/rope is saturated.
• An object such as recovery damper, heavy bag or blanket must be draped over the
strap/rope during use to reduce any unintentional rebound of the strap/rope
• Before attempting the vehicle recovery, passengers of the vehicles involved must
• Exit the vehicles and
• Stand as far away from the vehicles as possible (recommended as at least 1.5 times
the length of the unstretched strap/rope) from either of the vehicles involved in the
recovery process and
• Avoid standing within the path of the vehicle performing the recovery
SETTING UP THE RECOVERY
Assess the circumstances of the stranded vehicle. If it has bottomed out, clear under
the vehicle body so it rests on its wheels. The recovery vehicle should be placed in
line (n o m o r e than 10° off the straight line) with the stranded vehicle, for either a
forward o r r e v e r s e recovery operation. Distance between vehicles should be 2-3
metres (6-9ft) less t h a n t h e un-stretched length of the Recovery strap/rope.
Establish agreed signals between the vehicle drivers, by radio (preferably), hand signals
or vehicle horn.
CONNECTING THE RECOVERY STRAP/ROPE
Carefully inspect the Recovery strap/rope to determine that it is in good condition. If the
strap/rope is wet, dirty, cut or chaffed, it will not perform properly. A wet strap/rope may
be 20% under strength, a damaged strap/rope may break. Do not allow the strap/rope
to contact hot surfaces or sharp edges. Roll the strap/rope out between the vehicles, and
make sure there are no twists, leave about 2-3 metres (6-9ft) slack between the vehicles.
The joining of ropes should be avoided wherever possible (Retailers carry varying
lengths of strap/rope).
NEVER USE A METAL OBJECT to join ropes - if the strap/rope breaks it can become a
missile and cause damage or injury.
Check your vehicle hand book for recovery point locations, or use correctly rated and
fitted aftermarket recovery points. DO NOT CONNECT TO A TOW BALL OR TIE DOWN
POINT. Connect Recovery strap/rope to recovery point, for any recovery point requiring
the use of a shackle to attach the strap/rope, use only load rated shackles. Only connect
to correctly rated recovery points on the vehicles, with only `Load Rated’ shackles. Load
ratings are marked on shackles as WLL (Working Load Limit). Bow Shackles are suitable
for this purpose and should be rated at least 3.25t. To correctly tighten shackle
pins,screw the pin until it seats then back about 1/2 to 1 turn. Over tightening may lead
to seized pins, due to the force exerted during recovery operations. To reduce the risk of
vehicle damage and personal injury, hang a suitable recovery damper blanket, over the
Recovery strap/rope, approximately midway to restrict the whipping action of a
strap/rope should it break.
Last thing - Check all connections and clear bystanders to a safe distance (1.5 times the
un-stretched Recovery strap/rope length) to the side of the recovery operation and
NEVER in the line of recovery.
MAKING THE RECOVERY
1. Before the recovery operation drivers must agree on the point to which the
stranded vehicle is to be recovered and the signal (radio, hand signal or horn blast)
when that point is reached.
2. With communications maintained between both vehicles, and Recovery Rope
secure, the recovery vehicle should gently accelerate, taking up the slack and
proceeding at no faster than 10-12 kph. (6-7mph) For best results the stranded
vehicle should be in 1st gear (or 2nd Low), and the driver should assist the recovery
by trying to drive out approximately 3 seconds from when the recovery vehicle
moves off.
3. If the vehicle is not recovered on the attempt, check under the stranded vehicle,
again, for obstacles, reset the slack in the Recovery strap/rope and try a little more
speed by the recovery vehicle. NOTE: Excessive speed or continual jerking action
whilst using a Recovery strap/rope may result in damage to the recovery point,
chassis and drive line of both vehicles.
4. When the stranded vehicle reaches the agreed point the driver should advise and
the recovery vehicle should stop, then the stranded vehicle should stop.
5. Where proper use of a Recovery strap/rope is unsuccessful, use an appropriate
sized recovery winch.
6. Do not attempt to remove the strap/rope until both vehicles are stationary and
secured.
7. NOTE: Recovery Ropes require rest periods between use to return to their original
length and capacity. Excessive pulls over a short period of time can cause heat build
up and possible failure. Check your vehicle hand book for recovery point locations,
or use correctly rated and fitted aftermarket recovery points.GENERAL CARE AND MAINTENANCE
• Never allow your strap/rope to rub against sharp or hot surfaces.
• Avoid twists & kinks, after washing, and when dry; always coil your strap/rope for
storage
• Clean your strap/rope with warm water and a mild detergent, allowing thorough
drying before storage. Foreign material such as sand and grit can permanently
damage the strap/rope fibres.
• Check full length of ropes for nicks and cuts before and after use. If damaged,
replace it.
• Never use the strap/rope as a lifting sling.
• Inspect shackles for damage; if pins are hard to turn, shackle has been overstressed.
Replace it.
Steel rope has long been the standard choice for winches. Made from multiple strands of carbon steel wire, it offers excellent resistance to abrasion and generally comes at a lower cost than synthetic alternatives. Its main drawback is the tendency for individual wires to break over time, creating sharp burrs – meaning gloves are essential for safe handling.
Synthetic ropes, introduced to the market much later, are dramatically lighter – often up to ten times lighter than steel. Despite the lower weight, they can be incredibly strong, with some models offering breaking strengths up to seven times higher than comparable steel ropes. An often-overlooked advantage is that synthetic rope floats on water, making it extremely useful during river crossings and wet off-road conditions.
Unlike steel, synthetic rope doesn’t snap violently. It’s more flexible, and if damaged, it can be repaired in the field simply by tying a knot. This makes it a much safer option to use. On the downside, synthetic ropes cost more and are more susceptible to abrasion. However, for those willing to invest, they offer unmatched convenience and performance in challenging terrain.
The answer is simple – the fewer wraps on the drum, the more pulling power the winch can deliver. The exact amount of rope you can fit depends on the drum size. For example, a standard 12,000 lbs winch can typically hold about 28 m of 10 mm cable, or around 25 m if you go up to 12 mm. With these lengths, you need to pay close attention to how the rope is spooled to avoid pushing apart the crossbars that support the winch’s legs.
It’s the maximum load that a piece of equipment (like a strap, shackle, rope, or chain) is rated to handle during normal use. This value is set by the manufacturer based on safety factors, meaning the actual breaking strength of the equipment is higher, but you should never exceed the WLL in real-world operation.
Example: If a recovery strap has a WLL of 5 tons, it means you can safely use it for loads up to 5 tons under normal conditions.
The WLL is usually calculated as Breaking Strength ÷ Safety Factor. For lifting gear, the safety factor might be 4:1 or higher; for recovery gear, it can vary.
Key point: WLL is about safe working capacity, not the maximum it can physically hold before failure.
A marking such as 3 / 21 T on a recovery strap usually means:
3 T – the WLL (Working Load Limit) or safe working load of the strap. This is the maximum load that can be safely applied during regular use.
21 T – the breaking strength (also called ultimate strength or minimum breaking strength), which is the load at which the strap will fail in a controlled test.
In this example, the strap is rated for safe use at 3 tons, but in a laboratory test, it can withstand up to 21 tons before breaking. The difference between the two numbers comes from the safety factor applied by the manufacturer – in this case, 7:1 (21 ÷ 3 = 7).
Key point:
You should always work within the lower number (WLL) to maintain safety and prolong the life of your recovery gear. The higher number is there to indicate its ultimate tested strength, not the load you should use in real-world recovery.
Improved safety – when it breaks, it doesn’t store as much kinetic energy as steel, reducing the risk of injury.
Lightweight and easy to handle – often several times lighter than steel, with no sharp burrs to worry about; easier to spool in and out.
Field repairability – damaged rope can be rejoined or spliced without specialized equipment.
It floats – ideal for water crossings and wet environments.
Cons: more expensive, more vulnerable to UV exposure and dirt, and requires regular maintenance.
Safety margin – rope strength should be at least 1.5–2 times higher than your winch’s maximum rated pull.
Balance between diameter and length – thicker rope is stronger but takes up more drum space; sometimes a shorter main rope with an extension is the best option.
Avoid overfilling the drum – too much rope can damage winch components and reduce pulling efficiency.
Commonly made from HMPE fibers (such as Dyneema), polyester, or nylon – all highly resistant to moisture, corrosion, and offering exceptional strength.
Rope construction (e.g., 12-strand braid) affects durability, abrasion resistance, and how easily it picks up dirt.
may require the use of different winching techniques.
This could include situations such as too short a distance to achieve maximum pull using a straight-line setup,
or the need to increase pulling power or maintain the rope in a straight-line pull.
You must assess which technique is appropriate for your situation.
Always remember to think safety first.
When winching, it’s best to keep the rope running in a straight line from the winch to the object being pulled. This ensures even spooling on the drum, improves efficiency, and reduces the risk of rope damage.
Using a snatch block attached to a point directly in front of the vehicle allows you to change the pulling direction while keeping a 90° angle between the rope and the drum. This ensures the rope spools properly during operation.
In some situations, you may find you need more pulling power.
Using a snatch block provides mechanical advantage, which directly translates into increased winching power.
Winch pulling power decreases as the number of rope layers on the drum increases.
Using a snatch block in a double-line setup allows you to pull out more rope from the drum, reducing the number of layers and increasing pulling power.
Step-by-step:
Spool out enough winch rope to free the hook.
Attach the hook to the vehicle’s frame or tow point, then pass the rope through the snatch block.
Disengage the winch clutch and, using the snatch block, pull out enough rope to reach the anchor point.
Do not attach the hook to the winch mounting bracket.
Secure the rope to the anchor point using a tree saver strap or a choker chain.
Attach a shackle to both ends of the strap or chain, making sure not to overtighten – tighten and then back off half a turn.
Similar to the double-line setup – as shown in the diagram – except the rope end is routed through two snatch blocks, with the third point being, for example, a tree.
What is a roller fairlead for a winch?
A roller fairlead consists of four steel or aluminum rollers that guide the rope during winching. It is mainly used with steel cables because it reduces friction and prevents excessive wear when winching at an angle.
What is a hawse fairlead?
A hawse fairlead is a smooth plate, usually made of aluminum or steel, with a rounded opening through which the rope passes. It is designed specifically for synthetic ropes – minimizing wear and protecting them from abrasion.
Which option is better for synthetic rope?
For synthetic rope, a hawse fairlead is strongly recommended because:
It has a smooth surface that won’t damage the rope fibers.
It has no moving parts that could pinch or fray the rope.
It’s lighter and more compact than a roller fairlead.
Can you use roller fairleads with synthetic rope?
Yes, but only if they are in perfect condition – with no sharp edges, rust, or pitting. Even minor damage to the roller surface can cut or weaken synthetic rope.
Can you use a hawse fairlead with steel cable?
It’s not recommended. Steel cable combined with a hawse fairlead generates more friction, wears it out faster, and can cause serious damage when winching at an angle.